How Can You See the Sun Through a Ha Filter
#i 
Posted 27 Feb 2022 - 06:10 AM
Is it condom to paradigm the sunday with a 12nm H-Alpha filter behind the lens of DSLR, or CCD. Past rubber I am referring to equipment rubber. I do not plan on staring through the view finder of a DSLR at the sun.
cheers
#2
Posted 27 February 2022 - 06:24 AM
Is information technology safe to image the sun with a 12nm H-Alpha filter behind the lens of DSLR, or CCD. By safe I am referring to equipment rubber. I practise non plan on staring through the view finder of a DSLR at the sun.
thanks
Absolutely not
The OTA will even so collect the total free energy flux allowed by its aperture, which may seriously overheat and damage the eyes of the telescope; particularly if your telescopic has secondary mirror, or other lenses before the filter position
And it will concentrate it on the filter, overheating it and peradventure damaging the mounting ring, the filter coating if non burning a hole into it
You lot need to place a solar filter in the front of the OTA... these filters will reduce 99.9% of the incoming light, reducing what crosses the OTA optics
something like this
https://www.highpoin...r-filter-astf80
They came in different size to fit nigh OTA
There are other manufacturers and dealers offering like equipment
Once you accept that in place, the 12nm Ha is unnecessary, but you can yet keep information technology if you similar, will somehow amend contrast
Note that real solar scopes have a much narrower passband (0.7 to 0.5nm) and run on a unlike principle than regular narrowband Ha for DSO photography;
A simple clarification of the differences here
https://starizona.co...ters_solar.aspx
Edited by Ares69, 27 Feb 2022 - 06:45 AM.
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#3
Posted 27 February 2022 - 06:37 AM
This is what you can become with a "white light" filter as the one I was suggesting
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#4
Posted 27 February 2022 - 06:54 AM
#v
Posted 27 February 2022 - 08:59 AM
Is it safe to image the sun with a 12nm H-Alpha filter behind the lens of DSLR, or CCD. By rubber I am referring to equipment safe. I do not programme on staring through the view finder of a DSLR at the dominicus.
thanks
Unfortunately no, as described already in a higher place. The 12nm HA filter is fashion, way likewise broad and the energy would melt components rapidly.
White light filters work, just will not evidence you the chromosphere, just the photosphere. They're inexpensive and requite you an idea of things. But, we're in a solar minimum, in that location's literally very little to look at correct now, daily.
To co-operative into narrowband, such as HA, or CA, etc, y'all demand a defended solar telescopicor a dedicated filter organisation. These systems will have a very narrow tight filter, and an free energy rejection filter to block the estrus. The cheapest manner to become into HA filtered solar is with a used Coronado PST ($400ish). It gets y'all a taste. The cheapest style to get high resolution solar in HA and CA with apertures upwards of 150mm (half dozen") are Daystar Quarks ($800ish used; $1k new). And so in that location is everything between and well, well beyond that for costs. Those are the least expensive of the two spectrum (small scale and loftier resolution options). Betwixt the $400ish marking to the $1k mark, there are other small 35mm, 40mm and 50mm used scopes possible from Lunt & Coronado (Meade), but I don't run across much value in them due to their poor focuser options that cannot be replaced. So if on a budget, the PST is the scope to get for. If your budget is $1k and you want versatility, the Quark is a very popular style to get everything you tin can. If your budget is over $1k, more similar $2k, then you lot can commencement getting into dedicated modest aperture solar scopes (60mm basically, mayhap a used 80mm, perchance). Information technology gets costly as aperture gets bigger.
If you merely wanted to add a HA filter to your refractor, a Quark Chromosphere would practise that for you.
++++++++++++++++++++++
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Here'due south some HA Solar with a Coronado PST solar scope ($400ish used), with an ASI174MM camera (used a depression contour olfactory organ to achieve focus):
Here's some high resolution HA Solar using a cheap 120mm F8.iii achromatic refractor (Celestron Omni XLT 120, I got it used for $150 here on CN) with a 2" UV/IR cut filter inline (serves as a heat rejection filter) and a Quark Chromosphere ($850 used when I bought it). I went Quark considering for less than $1500 I tin can take a 5 inch solar telescopic. Merely await up how much a 80mm or 100mm telescopic costs that is dedicated and the cost difference is crazy.
Here's an ED80 doing HA solar with a Quark (note, in narrowbad, having an APO or an achromat makes zero deviation, that's why my primary imaging scope is a big 5 inch achromat as seen in a higher place):
Very best,
Edited by MalVeauX, 27 February 2022 - 09:29 AM.
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#6
Posted 27 Feb 2022 - 09:09 AM
I take a PST and information technology'due south a cool little scope.
I'd honey to practice more solar work only I continue dumping coin into my DSO rig.
But this is what a 224 and a PST tin do with minimal solar system experience.
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#7
Posted 27 Feb 2022 - ten:17 AM
Been wondering a close like question:
I have a 7nm Ha + 4" APO + .8FR (FL=560mm)
I was curious nearly shooting the sun low in sky and wondering if I could choice upward a solar prominence.
I was curious if under those conditions if I could shoot the lord's day without damaging the camera and if the Ha filter would let me see the prominence.
This would be like to sunset moving picture -- sensors don't seem to burn down out from a dusk flick.
The atmosphere will probably misconstrue the image and so the prominence might non be clear.
Also, trying to empathize the optics of sunday pictures in terms of an analema picture:
A fish-eye and wide bending lens would focus the sun's energy on pocket-sized area of pixels.
So I presume it might exist safer to shoot the sun at college FL that spreads the light over more pixels.
I guess for an high angle sun picture you merely take to control the exposure time to prevent harm to the sensor. And I guess you take to use a neutral density filter besides.
Not sure how people accept analema pics.
Edited by ks__observer, 27 February 2022 - 04:24 PM.
#8
Posted 27 February 2022 - 10:29 AM
>>>>>> I have a 7nm Ha + 4" APO + .8FR (FL=560mm)
>>>>>I was curious nearly shooting the sun low in heaven and wondering if I could pick up a solar prominence
Don't try it.....As has already been said.
A photographic filter is non at notwithstanding as a solar filter, even if both at Ha.
Your "curiosity" would probably price you the sensor in your camera. Information technology would not work because (as well overexposure) prominences are hard to run across when there is that much temper (depression on horizon), even with a Ha filter.
When aiming and focusing, exist certain not to utilise your favorite middle.
OK.....all scare tactics aside, information technology is possible to have the sun in a shot, without killing the sensor. After all, have we not all seen sunset pictures.
But contemplating taking a picture with a photographic filter is inviting damage.
Alex
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#nine
Posted 27 Feb 2022 - 10:37 AM
But contemplating taking a film with a photographic filter is inviting damage.
Alex
I will heed your communication 
Edited by ks__observer, 27 February 2022 - 02:00 PM.
#10
Posted 27 Feb 2022 - 10:50 AM
Been wondering a shut like question:
I accept a 7nm Ha + 4" APO + .8FR (FL=560mm)
I was curious about shooting the sun low in sky and wondering if I could choice up a solar prominence.
I was curious if nether those weather if I could shoot the sun without damaging the camera and if the Ha filter would allow me meet the prominence.
This would be like to sunset picture -- sensors don't seem to burn down out from a sunset picture.
The atmosphere will probably misconstrue the prototype then the prominence might non be articulate.
Also, trying to understand the optics of lord's day pictures in terms of an analema picture:
A fish-center and wide bending lens would focus the sun's energy on smaller area of pixels.
And then I presume it might be safer to shoot the sun at higher FL that spreads the calorie-free over more pixels.
I guess for an high angle sun pic you just accept to command the exposure time to prevent harm to the sensor. And I approximate you lot have to use some a neutral density filter equally well.
Not sure how people take analema pics.
Heya,
the 7nm HA filter allows a LOT of light to come up through, so information technology's non all HA, it'south not nearly equally tight as a solar scope'southward HA filter (closer to 0.3~0.5 Angstrom; note 1 Angstrom is 0.10nm, now call back of what 7nm ways relative to these scopes). No solar scope operates every bit wide as 12nm, 7nm or 3nm like night time HA filters are. Solar scopes are operating much, much tighter than that. Even if y'all could block the free energy of the sun with an energy rejection filter, you still would not go anything other than a red blob using a 7nm HA filter, because it lets in too much of the other parts of the spectrum. You definitely would never get a solar prominence with that.
With regards to why you can epitome the sun with a camera and a lens, similar fisheye or other lenses, that'south because ofaperture is small. At F8, F11, F16, etc, the apertures on these camera lenses aretiny. A 50mm lens for example at F8 has a 6mm aperture for context. A wide angle lens has an even smaller aperture, practically pinhole! This is why you can photograph it, and not totally destroy your sensor, considering non much energy is hitting the sensor with an aperture that small. It would still harm your eye though. And if it were pointed at the sunday and exposed for a long time, a few minutes to a few hours, it would absolutely cause damage to the sensor. People photographing sunsets and stuff are not gathering that exposure for minutes at a time, nor hours, they're just briefly exposing through a really, really pocket-size aperture. When you showtime using larger apertures (50mm is a huge aperture with how much energy the lord's day is outputting, for instance), you lot will see damage much faster.
I've melted the end cap off in an 80mm scope pointed at the dominicus for merely a few seconds. Didn't accept a camera attached, or it would have been toast.
Very best,
#11
Posted 27 February 2022 - 10:59 AM
Heya,
the 7nm HA filter allows a LOT of lite to come up through, and so it's non all HA, it's not virtually equally tight as a solar scope'due south HA filter (closer to 0.3~0.5 Angstrom; note 1 Angstrom is 0.10nm, now think of what 7nm means relative to these scopes). No solar scope operates every bit broad as 12nm, 7nm or 3nm like night fourth dimension HA filters are. Solar scopes are operating much, much tighter than that. Even if you could block the energy of the sun with an energy rejection filter, you still would non get anything other than a cherry blob using a 7nm HA filter, because it lets in too much of the other parts of the spectrum. You definitely would never get a solar prominence with that.
With regards to why you can paradigm the lord's day with a camera and a lens, like fisheye or other lenses, that's because ofaperture is small-scale. At F8, F11, F16, etc, the apertures on these camera lenses aretiny. A 50mm lens for example at F8 has a 6mm aperture for context. A wide bending lens has an even smaller aperture, practically pinhole! This is why yous tin photograph it, and non totally destroy your sensor, because not much energy is hit the sensor with an discontinuity that small. It would still damage your eye though. And if it were pointed at the lord's day and exposed for a long time, a few minutes to a few hours, it would absolutely cause damage to the sensor. People photographing sunsets and stuff are non gathering that exposure for minutes at a time, nor hours, they're just briefly exposing through a really, really small discontinuity. When you lot get-go using larger apertures (50mm is a huge aperture with how much free energy the sunday is outputting, for instance), you volition come across damage much faster.
I've melted the end cap off in an 80mm scope pointed at the sun for just a few seconds. Didn't take a camera attached, or it would have been toast.
Very best,
That definitely puts my Ha idea to bed.
Thanks for pointing out the aperture consequence with the fish-eye.
Very helpful info.
Cheers.
#12
Posted 27 February 2022 - 01:57 PM
Been wondering a close similar question:
I take a 7nm Ha + 4" APO + .8FR (FL=560mm)
I was curious about shooting the sun low in sky and wondering if I could pick up a solar prominence.
I was curious if under those atmospheric condition if I could shoot the sun without damaging the camera and if the Ha filter would let me run into the prominence.
This would be similar to sunset picture show -- sensors don't seem to burn out from a sunset picture.
The atmosphere will probably distort the paradigm so the prominence might non be clear.
Also, trying to understand the optics of sun pictures in terms of an analema picture:
A fish-eye and broad angle lens would focus the sun's energy on smaller area of pixels.
And then I presume it might be safer to shoot the sun at higher FL that spreads the light over more pixels.
I estimate for an high angle sun movie y'all but have to command the exposure time to prevent damage to the sensor. And I guess you have to apply some a neutral density filter as well.
Non certain how people take analema pics.
Heya,
the 7nm HA filter allows a LOT of light to come through, so it'southward not all HA, information technology's not nearly as tight as a solar scope's HA filter (closer to 0.3~0.5 Angstrom; annotation 1 Angstrom is 0.10nm, now think of what 7nm means relative to these scopes). No solar scope operates equally broad as 12nm, 7nm or 3nm like night time HA filters are. Solar scopes are operating much, much tighter than that. Fifty-fifty if you could block the energy of the sunday with an energy rejection filter, you lot still would not go anything other than a red blob using a 7nm HA filter, considering it lets in besides much of the other parts of the spectrum. You definitely would never get a solar prominence with that.
With regards to why you lot can image the sun with a camera and a lens, similar fisheye or other lenses, that'due south because ofaperture is small. At F8, F11, F16, etc, the apertures on these camera lenses aretiny. A 50mm lens for case at F8 has a 6mm aperture for context. A broad angle lens has an fifty-fifty smaller aperture, practically pinhole! This is why you can photograph it, and not totally destroy your sensor, because not much energy is hitting the sensor with an aperture that small. It would withal damage your eye though. And if information technology were pointed at the sun and exposed for a long fourth dimension, a few minutes to a few hours, it would admittedly cause damage to the sensor. People photographing sunsets and stuff are not gathering that exposure for minutes at a time, nor hours, they're merely briefly exposing through a really, really pocket-sized aperture. When y'all start using larger apertures (50mm is a huge aperture with how much energy the sun is outputting, for case), y'all volition see damage much faster.
I've melted the end cap off in an 80mm scope pointed at the sunday for merely a few seconds. Didn't have a camera fastened, or it would accept been toast.
Very best,
What about a solar white light filter (similar Baader solar film) combined with a Ha filter (like a Baader 7nm Ha)? The white lite filter would lower the incoming light to rubber levels for the telescopic and photographic camera, would the 7nm Ha filter provide any benefit, or is it notwithstanding too broadband?
#13
Posted 27 Feb 2022 - 03:00 PM
I was going to attempt taking a few quick shots with handheld 12nm prune in behind a 300mm lens. Yeah toasting the sensor on this camera would actually spoil my day! Retrieve Ill wait until I get the proper equipment.
That looks pretty decent FiremanDan. Im in the same situation, I already have money spent that I dont withal have on my DSO rig.
#14
Posted 27 Feb 2022 - 07:29 PM
What near a solar white light filter (similar Baader solar pic) combined with a Ha filter (like a Baader 7nm Ha)? The white light filter would lower the incoming calorie-free to prophylactic levels for the scope and camera, would the 7nm Ha filter provide whatever benefit, or is information technology still too broadband?
Won't work either. Too broadband. Also, you'd come across next to nothing, if not absolutely zip, through the scope due to lowering transmission levels to i% or less, so trying to get from there further filtering down.
There'southward unfortunately no shoestring method to become into actual narrowbanddaytime solar with hydrogen alpha without getting a specific filter that is extremely ultra-narrowband (656.23nm +/- a fraction of an angstrom with tuning ability to get on band, and this is consumer level!), with an appropriate energy rejection filter, and appropriate blocking filter. At that place are 3 principal components to them. They merely take various forms. Only basically information technology'due south an energy rejection filter, an etalon (the HA filter), and then a blocking filter. No way to skimp effectually information technology.
The cheapest way to go into solar HA is the Coronado PST.
Very best,
Edited by MalVeauX, 27 Feb 2022 - 07:32 PM.
#15
Posted xx August 2022 - 02:35 PM
In order to use a good Ha filter with my 5" refractor, I had to buy an energy rejection filter, which is 5" in diameter, and a *very* deep red in color. That's just for the energy rejection. Then I borrowed a Day Star filter from a friend. The good ones have a bandpass of .5 angstroms - there are less expensive ones with bandpasses of .6 and .vii.
I am posting this just so everyone tin become a sense of what is involved to encounter Ha detail, without damaging either cameras or eyes.
#sixteen
Posted 20 August 2022 - 03:37 PM
Absolutely and completely not! You WILL damage your equipment.
Get yourself something similar a Daystar Quark, or ameliorate yet simply get a dedicated Ha telescope. You can get a white light filter from Baader that volition piece of work fine, just is not an Ha setup similar you want.
Source: https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/609659-safe-to-photograph-the-sun-with-h-alpha-filter/
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